The first day of our trip was bright and sunny
with clear blue skies so we did plenty of sightseeing, visiting
Carrowmore Megalithic Cemetery, Ballina and Lough Conn (see above) en
route to the hotel. Next morning it was quite a shock to find the sea
and land covered in mist. I checked the weather forecast and thought
it would burn off so I headed out for a long hillwalk, the
Corrannbinnia - Bengorm Horseshoe (T decided to go for a local walk).
By the time I reached the first summit the mist
was thicker, giving about 20 yards visibility, so my options were
either to return or go on using compass bearings. I was very unsure
because I'd not done this sort of mountain navigation for many years
(the Mournes are easy, in mist there's a wall to show you the way). I
was also in mountains I'd never walked before. I decided to carry on
for a little while and try to find the next summit on the route, if
not I would retrace my steps.
Map in one hand, compass in the other, I headed on
over very rough ground with no real trail. My old navigation skills,
honed in the mountains of Snowdonia, were coming back to me despite
the difficulties of walking bearings and estimating distance. The
main problem was my glasses misting up with water droplets and not
clearing too well as I wiped them again and again with what rapidly
became a soggy handkerchief. I was overjoyed when the next summit
appeared from the mist.
I paused, I could now return the way I had come or
go on. I felt happy rediscovering my old skills and was enjoying the challenge, so I decided to continue. I found
my way along a broken ridge then up a steep face to the summit of
Corrannbinnia. The trig point loomed out of the mist and I stopped
for a snack. Perhaps it was just my eyes, but the mist seemed to thin and
I even thought I saw some watery sun for a few seconds, then it was
swallowed up by the whiteness.
I was just over halfway around the horseshoe and
it felt better to go on than to return. Suddenly the summit ridge narrowed
into a rocky scramble and I traversed steep drops that, thankfully, I couldnt
see. At the end of the summit ridge was a broad shoulder that the map
showed as leading to a ridge that offered a reasonably safe way down. I
set the bearing and headed off into the mist, keeping the steep edge
to my left. Sodden hanky working overtime, I descended on a sheep
track for the best part of an hour until I could see the valley
again. I'd been in thick mist for well over 4 hours and had found my
way around a complex of mountain ridges and safely back down again. I
was delighted to pass this mountain leadership test.
The next day was again misty so we went to Achill
Island sightseeing, beachwalking and birdwatching. There are still
some great places on the island, Keem Strand and the Deserted Village
especially, but since I first went there 15 years ago Achill has
become afflicted with holiday homes blight. Bad Government policy and
lax planning produce ugly results and a special place has become
somewhat spoiled.
On our last day the wind came bringing sunshine
and showers. We went for a long walk across peaty moorland to Lough
Furnace and back via the Greenway. After a late lunch in Newport at
Kelly's Cafe we visited the striking stained glass of Harry Clarke in
the local church. The town was established by Ulster Quakers who
brought linen weaving to Mayo. Afterwards we went sightseeing on the
shores of Lough Carra, to Ballintubber Abbey and the excellent Castle
Carra.
A longish drive back (four and a half hours, with
a break in Manorhamilton) brought another great Mayo trip to a close.
Tired but happy, we slept soundly.
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